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Brighter and whiter than regular incandescent flashlight bulbs, the MiniPro
light engine will transform your MiniMag or similar flashlight into a state of
the art lighting instrument. You will never have to replace a bulb again; the
Luxeon LED is rated for 50,000 hours operation to 70% initial brightness.
And the Luxeon LED is shock proof so bumping or dropping your
flashlight won't blow the bulb.
Get the MiniPro light engine today and transform your 2AA flashlight into
a light with the brightness and performance of much larger flashlights.
light engine will transform your MiniMag or similar flashlight into a state of
the art lighting instrument. You will never have to replace a bulb again; the
Luxeon LED is rated for 50,000 hours operation to 70% initial brightness.
And the Luxeon LED is shock proof so bumping or dropping your
flashlight won't blow the bulb.
Get the MiniPro light engine today and transform your 2AA flashlight into
a light with the brightness and performance of much larger flashlights.
This run time chart shows the
MiniPro light engine output in lux @
one meter over time in minutes. The
green line plots 2AA NiMh cells and
the blue line plots one single AA
NiMh performance.
The MiniPro also has a low level
survival mode so when the batteries
do run down you won't be left in the
dark. The low level light is sufficient
to navigate in a dark area while you
get some fresh batteries.
MiniPro light engine output in lux @
one meter over time in minutes. The
green line plots 2AA NiMh cells and
the blue line plots one single AA
NiMh performance.
The MiniPro also has a low level
survival mode so when the batteries
do run down you won't be left in the
dark. The low level light is sufficient
to navigate in a dark area while you
get some fresh batteries.
MiniPro AA Kit - $25.00 including shipping (USA & Canada) In Stock Now!
MiniPro Kit now includes a select grade Luxeon emitter. Everything you need to
assemble a complete MiniPro light engine is included!
The MiniPro AA Kit contains all the following parts:
MiniPro Kit now includes a select grade Luxeon emitter. Everything you need to
assemble a complete MiniPro light engine is included!
The MiniPro AA Kit contains all the following parts:
- 3 Watt Luxeon LED Emitter
- AA Heatsink and micro screw
- Glass Lens & custom reflector
- MiniPro Converter Kit
- Converter kit component parts:
- IC
- X5R Capacitor - (two required)
- Inductor
- PCB
NOTE: You must use the new style Luxeon
LED with the round stud for the MiniPro Kit.
The old style Luxeon will not fit into the
heatsink properly.
LED with the round stud for the MiniPro Kit.
The old style Luxeon will not fit into the
heatsink properly.
| Mini-Pro Kit Assembly Instructions |
Check the contents of your kit and make sure you have all the required parts before beginning.
You should have:
You should have:
1 - Luxeon TWOH 3 Watt Emitter
1 - Heatsink & screw
1 - Circuit board
1 - Inductor
2 - Ceramic capacitors
1 - IC
1 - Reflector
1 - Glass 22.2mm front window
1 - 5/8 x 1/2 o-ring
1 - 3 inch long 26 gauge solid insulated wire
1 - Heatsink & screw
1 - Circuit board
1 - Inductor
2 - Ceramic capacitors
1 - IC
1 - Reflector
1 - Glass 22.2mm front window
1 - 5/8 x 1/2 o-ring
1 - 3 inch long 26 gauge solid insulated wire
Step 1 - Circuit Board Prep and sizing
If everything is accounted for in the inventory, then begin by
lightly filing the edges of the circuit board as shown in the photo.
Go slowly and check the fit of the board into the rear of the
heatsink.
DO NOT file too much!
lightly filing the edges of the circuit board as shown in the photo.
Go slowly and check the fit of the board into the rear of the
heatsink.
DO NOT file too much!
Use a fine tooth file or emery board. File just enough to remove
any rough material and bring it to the edge of the copper plating
so the board fits snugly into the heatsink. Now clean the
copper on the converter circuit board with an eraser or paper
towel and alcohol.
TIP: Clean copper solders much easier
any rough material and bring it to the edge of the copper plating
so the board fits snugly into the heatsink. Now clean the
copper on the converter circuit board with an eraser or paper
towel and alcohol.
TIP: Clean copper solders much easier
The circuit board should just fit into the rear of the can and set
on the machined lip inside.
Test the four regions of the circuit board with an ohm-meter to
insure they are completely isolated from each other.
This step is just to ensure there are no microscopic copper
hairs left behind after the etching process. It is very rare to find
a short, but checking the board now eliminates it from any
future possible troubleshooting that may be required.
General guidance - Do not apply too much heat. Electrical components can be damaged by excessive
heat during soldering. It is recommended that you use the three count rule when soldering surface mount
components. The three count rule is that during soldering, begin counting to three when you apply heat and
remove the soldering iron when the count of three is reached (approx 2-3 seconds), even if the soldering
operation is not complete. Let things cool back down and re-solder the joint if not accomplished the first time,
again using the three count rule. Surface mount components will generally need to be held in position during
soldering as the surface tension of the solder paste as it melts in to liquid solder can pull the components out
of position.
For the following steps it is recommended that the circuit board be mounted in a vise or other similar device to
hold it stationary during soldering. As a general good practice, test fit components on the circuit board before
adding soldering paste to insure proper alignment.
Note: Although references in the instructions relate to solder paste, fine gauge solder (0.015 inch or smaller
recommended) can be used in it's place.
heat during soldering. It is recommended that you use the three count rule when soldering surface mount
components. The three count rule is that during soldering, begin counting to three when you apply heat and
remove the soldering iron when the count of three is reached (approx 2-3 seconds), even if the soldering
operation is not complete. Let things cool back down and re-solder the joint if not accomplished the first time,
again using the three count rule. Surface mount components will generally need to be held in position during
soldering as the surface tension of the solder paste as it melts in to liquid solder can pull the components out
of position.
For the following steps it is recommended that the circuit board be mounted in a vise or other similar device to
hold it stationary during soldering. As a general good practice, test fit components on the circuit board before
adding soldering paste to insure proper alignment.
Note: Although references in the instructions relate to solder paste, fine gauge solder (0.015 inch or smaller
recommended) can be used in it's place.
Step 2 - Converter Assembly
The first step is to strip a short piece of the wire about 1/4 inch
long and insert the bare wire through the hole in the battery +
contact.
It's a tight fit and you may have to twist the wire to get it
through the hole. Leave enough wire to bend over and solder
to the copper battery contact.
Solder the wire to the positive battery contact as shown in the
photo.
This step is important to complete before trying to solder the components on
the other side of the board. Heat generated when soldering this large contact
area could cause components to unsolder from the other side of the board if
not done first.
photo.
This step is important to complete before trying to solder the components on
the other side of the board. Heat generated when soldering this large contact
area could cause components to unsolder from the other side of the board if
not done first.
Use this drawing for reference to locate the different
components of the circuit board.
Position the IC on the circuit board as shown in the next
couple drawings.
The IC will need to be held in position when soldered or it will
move.
components of the circuit board.
Position the IC on the circuit board as shown in the next
couple drawings.
The IC will need to be held in position when soldered or it will
move.
Pin 1 on the IC is marked by a small indented dot next to it.
Use this drawing for reference to locate the different input and
output sections of the circuit board.
output sections of the circuit board.
Note that the shaded area in this drawing is the ground
section. There is a negative contact ring around the outside
edge of the circuit. This makes the ground contact with the
machined ledge inside the heatsink. Try to keep the contact
ring area free of solder.
Don't sweat it if you do get some solder on the contact ring
area, it can be cleaned up with solder wick and alcohol later.
section. There is a negative contact ring around the outside
edge of the circuit. This makes the ground contact with the
machined ledge inside the heatsink. Try to keep the contact
ring area free of solder.
Don't sweat it if you do get some solder on the contact ring
area, it can be cleaned up with solder wick and alcohol later.
Using a toothpick, apply a very small amount of solder paste to
the base of Pin 4.
It may be necessary to re-align the IC after applying the solder paste.
Solder Pin 4 by placing the tip of your soldering iron on the copper
right next to the pin. Observe the solder paste and continue heating
until it all has melted and flowed; remove heat immediately. This will
anchor the IC in place so the rest of the leads can be soldered.
the base of Pin 4.
It may be necessary to re-align the IC after applying the solder paste.
Solder Pin 4 by placing the tip of your soldering iron on the copper
right next to the pin. Observe the solder paste and continue heating
until it all has melted and flowed; remove heat immediately. This will
anchor the IC in place so the rest of the leads can be soldered.
Check the alignment of Pins 5 thru 8 and make any slight
adjustments necessary to align the pins into position.
adjustments necessary to align the pins into position.
Again using a toothpick, place a small amount of solder paste
along the base of Pins 5 thru 8.
Solder pins 5 thru 8 by placing your soldering iron on the copper and
sliding the tip up to the base of the IC pins. Inspect for solder bridges
between pins and between copper circuit patterns. If solder bridges are
found, use solder wick to carefully remove.
along the base of Pins 5 thru 8.
Solder pins 5 thru 8 by placing your soldering iron on the copper and
sliding the tip up to the base of the IC pins. Inspect for solder bridges
between pins and between copper circuit patterns. If solder bridges are
found, use solder wick to carefully remove.
Cut the wire from the battery contact so that there is just
enough wire left to bend over; bend it toward Pin 8 and then
solder the wire.
enough wire left to bend over; bend it toward Pin 8 and then
solder the wire.
Now use a toothpick to apply a small amount of solder paste
to pins 1 thru 3 and solder Pins 1 thru 3.
to pins 1 thru 3 and solder Pins 1 thru 3.
Position the output capacitor as shown in the drawing above and
solder in place. You will need to hold the capacitor in place
during soldering or it may move out of position. Apply a small
amount of solder paste and apply heat using the three count
rule. Do the same for the other end contact of the capacitor.
Do not allow capacitor to stick out past the edge of the etched
circle. Keep it within the edges of the etched ring on the circuit
board.
solder in place. You will need to hold the capacitor in place
during soldering or it may move out of position. Apply a small
amount of solder paste and apply heat using the three count
rule. Do the same for the other end contact of the capacitor.
Do not allow capacitor to stick out past the edge of the etched
circle. Keep it within the edges of the etched ring on the circuit
board.
Position the input capacitor as shown in the drawing above and
solder the one end only in place.
You will need to hold the capacitor in place during soldering or
it may move out of position. Apply a small amount of solder
paste and apply heat using the three count rule.
Do not allow capacitor to stick out past the edge of the etched
circle. Keep it within the edges of the etched ring on the circuit
board.
solder the one end only in place.
You will need to hold the capacitor in place during soldering or
it may move out of position. Apply a small amount of solder
paste and apply heat using the three count rule.
Do not allow capacitor to stick out past the edge of the etched
circle. Keep it within the edges of the etched ring on the circuit
board.
Test position the inductor as shown in the photo and solder in
place. Solder both the inductor and input capacitor
connections at the same time. Solder the other inductor
contact also.
Do not allow inductor to stick out past the edge of the etched
circle. Keep it within the edges of the etched ring on the circuit
board.
place. Solder both the inductor and input capacitor
connections at the same time. Solder the other inductor
contact also.
Do not allow inductor to stick out past the edge of the etched
circle. Keep it within the edges of the etched ring on the circuit
board.
Cut Two 1 inch (2.54cm) lengths of 26 gauge wire. Strip the
insulation from most of the wire; save the insulation for use
latter.
Solder one wire to the ground connection as shown in the
photo.
insulation from most of the wire; save the insulation for use
latter.
Solder one wire to the ground connection as shown in the
photo.
Solder this wire to the output connection as shown in the photo.
The completed converter should like the sample in the photo.
The completed converter should like the sample in the photo.
Cut a 1/8" section of insulation left over from the wires stripped
earlier.
Slide the insulator over the Vout lead of the converter as shown in
the photo. This will keep the Vout wire from shorting to the
heatsink.
Be sure the insulation is below the top surface of the heatsink when test fitting
the converter to the heatsink. Trim any excess insulation length and re-install on
the Vout wire and test fit again on the heatsink.
earlier.
Slide the insulator over the Vout lead of the converter as shown in
the photo. This will keep the Vout wire from shorting to the
heatsink.
Be sure the insulation is below the top surface of the heatsink when test fitting
the converter to the heatsink. Trim any excess insulation length and re-install on
the Vout wire and test fit again on the heatsink.
Step 3 - Testing the converter
No damage will result from powering the converter up without a
load attached to the output leads. If powered up with no load
attached, you should be able to measure 5VDC at the output.
However, The converter is best tested under real world
conditions, that is with a Luxeon LED attached to the output
leads.
load attached to the output leads. If powered up with no load
attached, you should be able to measure 5VDC at the output.
However, The converter is best tested under real world
conditions, that is with a Luxeon LED attached to the output
leads.
Connect a Luxeon to the output leads with test clips and then
connect a battery to the battery contact (V+) and ground wire.
Note the ground is common to both input and output; (connect
the Luxeon negative and battery ground together).
connect a battery to the battery contact (V+) and ground wire.
Note the ground is common to both input and output; (connect
the Luxeon negative and battery ground together).
When the battery (red test lead) is connected to the converter Vin
battery contact on the back side of the circuit board, the Luxeon
should light up brightly. Do not power Luxeon emitter for more
than one or two seconds without a heatsink!
If the converter does not work properly, then inspect for solder bridges
between pins and between copper circuit patterns. If solder bridges are
found, use solder wick to carefully remove. Once proper operation of the
converter is verified, continue on to step 4.
battery contact on the back side of the circuit board, the Luxeon
should light up brightly. Do not power Luxeon emitter for more
than one or two seconds without a heatsink!
If the converter does not work properly, then inspect for solder bridges
between pins and between copper circuit patterns. If solder bridges are
found, use solder wick to carefully remove. Once proper operation of the
converter is verified, continue on to step 4.
Step 4 - Assembling the MiniPro
Rout the output wires as shown in the photo; be careful the
ground wire does not short to the inductor contact.
ground wire does not short to the inductor contact.
Insert the converter board into the heatsink. Carefully guide
the positive output wire with the insulation into the hole of the
heatsink (the side with one hole). The ground wire goes into
the hole opposite the single hole.
Check to see that the screw hole in the circuit board aligns
with the screw hole in the heatsink. Adjust the circuit board by
rotating left or right until the screw holes align.
the positive output wire with the insulation into the hole of the
heatsink (the side with one hole). The ground wire goes into
the hole opposite the single hole.
Check to see that the screw hole in the circuit board aligns
with the screw hole in the heatsink. Adjust the circuit board by
rotating left or right until the screw holes align.
Insert the screw and tighten until it just touches the circuit
board. Tighten the screw no more than 1/4 turn after contact is
made with the circuit board.
Verify electrical operation again.
board. Tighten the screw no more than 1/4 turn after contact is
made with the circuit board.
Verify electrical operation again.
Step 5 - Preparing the Luxeon
Note: If you have a Luxeon Star, you will need to remove the Luxeon LED to use it with the
Mini-Pro converter. Follow these steps to safely remove the LED without damage.
If you have an emitter, continue on to Step 6.
Mini-Pro converter. Follow these steps to safely remove the LED without damage.
If you have an emitter, continue on to Step 6.
Apply heat and lift the Luxeon leads with a toothpick from the
circuit board.
Use solder wick to remove any solder still remaining between
the lead and circuit board.
circuit board.
Use solder wick to remove any solder still remaining between
the lead and circuit board.
Use two pair of pliers to grip the heatsink and bend it back
away from the LED.
Grip 90 degrees from the leads so they are not damaged.
away from the LED.
Grip 90 degrees from the leads so they are not damaged.
The LED will safely fall off once the heatsink is flexed enough.
Step 6 - Mounting the Luxeon
Trim the Luxeon leads as shown in the photo.
Note that there are studs next to the leads. The lead with the
longer stud is the positive lead that will get connected to Vout
Note that there are studs next to the leads. The lead with the
longer stud is the positive lead that will get connected to Vout
Test fit the Luxeon in position on the heatsink between the two
output leads; note polarity!
The face of the heatsink has a precision cut out for the Luxeon
stud. It will perfectly center the Luxeon and provide for maximum
heat transfer. Mix a small amount of thermal epoxy and apply a
thin layer to the cut out in the heatsink. Carefully position the
Luxeon (Note Polarity) and press down firmly on the Luxeon
case to sqeeze out excess epoxy. You want the thermal epoxy to
be as thin a layer as possible for good heat conduction.
Do not push on the Luxeon lens, as this can cause bubbles in the
lens. Push only on the black case around the lens, not the lens itself.
output leads; note polarity!
The face of the heatsink has a precision cut out for the Luxeon
stud. It will perfectly center the Luxeon and provide for maximum
heat transfer. Mix a small amount of thermal epoxy and apply a
thin layer to the cut out in the heatsink. Carefully position the
Luxeon (Note Polarity) and press down firmly on the Luxeon
case to sqeeze out excess epoxy. You want the thermal epoxy to
be as thin a layer as possible for good heat conduction.
Do not push on the Luxeon lens, as this can cause bubbles in the
lens. Push only on the black case around the lens, not the lens itself.
Once the thermal epoxy has set up, trim the output wires and
solder the Luxeon leads to the output wires.
Test the MiniPro to ensure proper operation.
solder the Luxeon leads to the output wires.
Test the MiniPro to ensure proper operation.
Step 7 - Installing the MiniPro into a Flashlight
Unscrew the bezel ring from the flashlight head and remove
the plastic lens and reflector.
Replace the plastic lens and reflector with the supplied glass
front window and reflector and install the bezel ring back onto
the head.
the plastic lens and reflector.
Replace the plastic lens and reflector with the supplied glass
front window and reflector and install the bezel ring back onto
the head.
Pry off the top of the black plastic switch assembly, and
remove the black plastic bulb socket from inside the battery
tube.
remove the black plastic bulb socket from inside the battery
tube.
Carefully slide the MiniPro into the battery tube Luxeon end
first and make sure the MiniPro is properly seated on rim of the
battery tube as shown in the photo. Insert the supplied oring
into the battery tube and use a pencil or soda straw to seat the
oring in position behind the MiniPro. This oring will prevent the
MiniPro from falling out when the batteries are changed.
first and make sure the MiniPro is properly seated on rim of the
battery tube as shown in the photo. Insert the supplied oring
into the battery tube and use a pencil or soda straw to seat the
oring in position behind the MiniPro. This oring will prevent the
MiniPro from falling out when the batteries are changed.
Insert two AA cells and install the tail cap. The Luxeon should
be lit up nice and bright.
be lit up nice and bright.
Install the head assembly and check for proper twist on/off
function.
function.
MiniPro Converter Technical Details
The MiniPro converter is based on the MAX1797 IC in the 8uMAX
surface mount package. The MAX1797 uses an internal
synchronous rectifier which eliminates the need for an external
diode and improves on efficiency.
Unlike other more complex, and less performing converters, this
circuit needs only four active components; IC, Inductor, Input
Capacitor and Output Capacitor. The circuit works very well on
just one AA cell driving a Luxeon LED for a very small and bright
flashlight. Two cells can be used for super bright output.
surface mount package. The MAX1797 uses an internal
synchronous rectifier which eliminates the need for an external
diode and improves on efficiency.
Unlike other more complex, and less performing converters, this
circuit needs only four active components; IC, Inductor, Input
Capacitor and Output Capacitor. The circuit works very well on
just one AA cell driving a Luxeon LED for a very small and bright
flashlight. Two cells can be used for super bright output.
In the MiniPro converter Pins 1 thru 5 are connected to ground.
Pin 2 when connected to ground limits the maximum open circuit
voltage to 5VDC. The other Pins, FB, SHDN, LBI and LBO are not
used and connected to ground, but could provide additional
functions such as software shut down and low battery indicator.
Pin 2 when connected to ground limits the maximum open circuit
voltage to 5VDC. The other Pins, FB, SHDN, LBI and LBO are not
used and connected to ground, but could provide additional
functions such as software shut down and low battery indicator.
The unique layout of the MiniPro circuit board maximizes heat
conduction, peak switch current and circuit stability while
minimizing EMI and RF emissions. The MAX1797 also has an
internal damping switch to minimize ringing at LX. The damping
switch connects a resistor across the inductor when the inductor’s
energy is depleted. This unique board layout coupled with a fully
shielded inductor and the Max1797 damping circuit reduces
EMI/RF emissions far below the typical levels found in similar sized
and performing DC/DC circuits.
conduction, peak switch current and circuit stability while
minimizing EMI and RF emissions. The MAX1797 also has an
internal damping switch to minimize ringing at LX. The damping
switch connects a resistor across the inductor when the inductor’s
energy is depleted. This unique board layout coupled with a fully
shielded inductor and the Max1797 damping circuit reduces
EMI/RF emissions far below the typical levels found in similar sized
and performing DC/DC circuits.
While the MiniPro is not a current regulating circuit, it is quite evident from the runtime graphs that it
achieves the same or better regulation results as current regulated circuits when driving a Luxeon
LED.
The MAX1797 has a preset, pin-selectable (Pin 2) 5V or 3.3V output. The output can also be
adjusted to other voltages, using just two external resistors or a single potentiometer. Future
converter only versions of this circuit will take advantage of these features for custom applications.
Further information and performance details of the MAX1797 can be found on the Maxim web site.
achieves the same or better regulation results as current regulated circuits when driving a Luxeon
LED.
The MAX1797 has a preset, pin-selectable (Pin 2) 5V or 3.3V output. The output can also be
adjusted to other voltages, using just two external resistors or a single potentiometer. Future
converter only versions of this circuit will take advantage of these features for custom applications.
Further information and performance details of the MAX1797 can be found on the Maxim web site.
MiniPro design inception date 1 Jun 2004
Mini-Pro replacement parts:
AA Heatsink and micro screw - $5.00
Glass Lens & custom reflector - $5.00
MiniPro Converter Kit - $12.00
Converter kit component parts:
IC - $5.00
X5R Capacitor - $2.00 (two required)
Inductor - $3.00
PCB - $2.00
AA Heatsink and micro screw - $5.00
Glass Lens & custom reflector - $5.00
MiniPro Converter Kit - $12.00
Converter kit component parts:
IC - $5.00
X5R Capacitor - $2.00 (two required)
Inductor - $3.00
PCB - $2.00